How to choose a princess diamond

Buying Guide

The princess cut is a type of modified brilliant cut, combining the facet pattern of a round brilliant with a sharp, square or slightly rectangular silhouette. Instead of soft curves, the princess cut features crisp, pointed corners and clean lines, giving it a bold, modern appeal. As part of the fancy cut family, the princess cut offers exceptional brilliance while providing a contemporary alternative to traditional round diamonds — perfect for those drawn to geometric elegance and striking sparkle.

• Characteristics

  Length-to-Width Ratio:

  Princess cut diamonds are typically square, with an ideal length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05. Ratios above 1.05 create a more rectangular look, which may appeal to those who prefer a slightly elongated shape. Symmetry is key — a well-balanced ratio ensures the diamond appears even and proportioned from every angle.

  Facets:

  Princess cut diamonds generally feature 57 or 76 facets, depending on the specific cutting style. These brilliant-style facets are arranged to maximize sparkle while highlighting the stone’s sharp, clean edges.

  Facet Pattern (Brilliance & Scintillation):

  Unlike cushion cuts, princess cuts produce a distinct pattern of sharp, intense flashes of light, sometimes called "pin-fire" or "crushed ice" sparkle. This creates a lively brilliance that contrasts beautifully with the stone’s geometric form.

  Depth and Pavilion:

  Princess cuts often have deeper pavilions to help maximize light return. Ideally, look for depth percentages between 65% and 75% and table percentages between 68% and 75% to ensure excellent sparkle without compromising face-up size.

•  Buying Tips

  Cut Quality:

  Since most labs don’t provide a standardized cut grade for princess cuts, focus on symmetry, table size, and depth percentage. Look for a table between 68% and 75% and depth between 65% and 75%. A well-cut princess diamond will display strong brilliance and avoid dark areas in the center or corners. Balanced, sharp corners and even facet alignment are also essential for maximizing sparkle.

  Colour and Clarity:

  Princess cuts can show color more easily near the corners. For a bright, white look, especially in white gold or platinum, choose a colour grade of H or higher. Warmer tones like I or J can work well in yellow or rose gold settings. For clarity, VS2 or SI1 is often a great balance — just ensure inclusions aren’t located near the corners, as this can weaken the stone structurally.

  Settings:

  Because of their pointed corners, princess cut diamonds benefit from protective settings. V-prongs or bezel settings help shield the corners from chipping. Princess cuts also pair beautifully with solitaire, halo, and vintage-inspired settings, offering flexibility for both modern and classic styles.

• Popular Settings

  Halo:

  Surrounding the princess cut with a halo of smaller diamonds enhances its fire and gives the illusion of a larger center stone. The square halo complements the princess cut’s shape beautifully while adding extra brilliance.

  Vintage-Inspired:

  Princess cuts pair well with vintage-style settings featuring milgrain detailing, filigree work, or side stones. These elements bring warmth and old-world charm, balancing the stone’s modern cut with romantic design details.

  Bezel Setting:

  A bezel setting fully encases the princess cut in metal, offering excellent protection for its vulnerable corners. This sleek, contemporary look is both practical and stylish for everyday wear.

  Three-Stone:

  Framing the princess cut with two side stones—such as tapered baguettes or smaller princess cuts—adds visual balance and symbolism, representing a couple’s past, present, and future together.