The Glossary
A
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Mineral
An alloy is a metal made by combining a precious metal with other elements to improve strength and durability. In jewellery, alloys are used to make metals such as gold and platinum suitable for everyday wear.
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Mineral
A gemstone found in riverbeds or sedimentary deposits, shaped naturally by water movement. These gems are often well-rounded and prized for their organic formation.
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Technique
A heat treatment used in metalworking to soften metal, making it easier to shape and work with.
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Process
A formal valuation of a piece of jewellery, often used for insurance or resale purposes.
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Technique
An Art Deco setting draws inspiration from the 1920s and 1930s, featuring symmetry, clean lines and geometric detailing. It is ideal for clients who love bold, architectural design.
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Piece
A square-shaped gemstone cut with layered facets, popular for vintage-style engagement rings.
B
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Technique
Band profile refers to the cross-sectional shape of a ring, such as court, flat, or D-shape. The profile affects comfort, appearance, and how the ring sits on the finger.
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Technique
A basket setting uses interwoven metalwork beneath the gemstone to create a secure “basket” structure. It holds the stone slightly lower while still allowing ample light to enter from the sides.
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Piece
A type of setting where the gemstone is surrounded by a thin metal rim for a modern, secure finish.
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Mineral
A gemstone traditionally associated with a specific month, such as emerald for May or sapphire for September.
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Process
The brightness and sparkle of a gemstone as light reflects from its facets.
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Process
The amount of white light that returns to the eye from a gemstone. High brilliance return indicates exceptional cutting and clarity.
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Process
The process of going into a store to find the perfect ring for yourself or your loved one and coming away with it - generally much happier!
C
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Process
A unit of weight for gemstones; one carat equals 200 milligrams.
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Technique
Cathedral shoulders use elegant, arching lines that rise from the band to meet the centre stone. This raises the gemstone for added presence while creating an elegant, architectural silhouette.
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Process
Clarity grade measures the presence of internal inclusions and external blemishes within a gemstone. Diamonds are graded on an industry-standard scale ranging from Flawless to Included.
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Technique
The vertical measurement of the upper portion of a gemstone above the girdle. It impacts sparkle, fire and the stone’s overall silhouette.
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Technique
A square or rectangular gemstone cut with rounded corners and large facets to enhance brilliance.
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Process
Cut quality refers to how well a gemstone has been proportioned and finished. It directly affects light performance, brilliance, and overall visual appeal.
D
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Mineral
The hardest known natural material, often used in engagement rings for its durability and sparkle.
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Process
A structural map showing all parts of a diamond including table, girdle, culet and pavilion. It helps clients understand how proportions affect appearance.
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Process
Diamond certification is an independent report detailing a diamond’s cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight. Reputable laboratories include GIA, IGI, and HRD.
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Technique
Diamond cut refers to how well a diamond has been shaped and faceted. Cut quality has the greatest impact on sparkle, brightness and overall beauty, more than any other grading factor.
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Mineral
A gemstone composed of two layers, often used to enhance appearance or reduce cost.
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Piece
The overall strength of a gemstone, including resistance to scratches, heat and chemicals.
E
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Process
Electroplating is the process of adding a thin layer of precious metal—such as rhodium—to the surface of a piece of jewellery. It enhances colour, shine and durability.
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Mineral
A green gemstone prized for its rich colour and historical significance, commonly featured in fine jewellery.
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Technique
Decorative or personalised text and designs etched into the metal of a ring or pendant.
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Piece
A band set with continuous gemstones symbolising never-ending love, often gifted on anniversaries.
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Process
A standard ensuring gemstones are mined responsibly with strong labour and environmental protections. It supports conflict-free and transparent sourcing.
F
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Technique
The flat surface on a gemstone, cut to reflect light and enhance sparkle.
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Technique
The faceted pavilion is the lower portion of a gemstone, where angled facets return light back through the top of the stone. Its precision greatly influences brilliance and fire.
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Technique
Intricate, lace-like metalwork used as decorative detailing on vintage-inspired designs.
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Process
Finish refers to the surface treatment applied to jewellery, such as high polish, satin, or brushed. The finish affects both appearance and maintenance requirements.
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Process
A clarity grade given to diamonds or gemstones that show no inclusions or blemishes under magnification.
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Process
The level of glow a diamond emits under UV light. It can subtly influence a stone’s appearance and pricing.
G
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Process
The part of the ring below the setting that can feature decorative design work.
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Technique
A gallery rail is the supportive metal band running beneath a gemstone setting. It strengthens the mount and contributes to the ring’s decorative side profile.
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Process
A trained expert who studies, identifies and evaluates gemstones
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Process
The ideal area of a gemstone examined with a loupe for inclusions. It ensures accurate grading and quality control.
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Mineral
Gemstone hardness measures resistance to scratching, commonly assessed using the Mohs scale. Hardness helps determine a stone’s suitability for everyday wear.
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Piece
The widest edge of a gemstone, separating the crown from the pavilion.
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Piece
A gold female wedding ring is a women’s wedding band crafted from yellow, white or rose gold and worn to symbolise marriage and lifelong commitment. It is traditionally exchanged during the wedding ceremony and designed to suit a woman’s style, whether classic, modern or diamond-set.
H
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Process
A hallmark is an official stamp applied to precious metal jewellery to confirm metal purity. In the UK, hallmarking is legally required for items above a certain weight.
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Piece
A ring setting where a central gemstone is encircled by smaller accent stones to enhance brilliance.
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Process
The process of polishing jewellery by hand to achieve a flawless finish. It enhances lustre and ensures artisan-level quality.
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Piece
A gemstone’s resistance to scratching, often measured on the Mohs scale.
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London’s historic jewellery quarter, home to Holts Gems and many of the UK’s top jewellers.
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Technique
A heat map is a visual diagram used in advanced diamond analysis to illustrate how effectively a stone reflects light. Areas of strong brilliance and leakage are highlighted to help compare overall performance.
I
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Piece
A natural internal feature or imperfection within a gemstone.
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Mineral
A grouping of tiny internal features within a gemstone. While natural, clusters can affect clarity and brilliance.
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Piece
Internal graining refers to faint, naturally occurring lines within a diamond formed during its growth. These features are usually only visible under magnification and rarely affect beauty.
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Piece
High-value gemstones selected for rarity and long-term appreciation potential.
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Piece
A rainbow-like optical effect seen in some gemstones, such as opals or moonstones.
J
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Process
A jewellery appraisal is a formal assessment of a piece’s value, typically for insurance purposes. It reflects current market value rather than retail purchase price.
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Piece
The metal framework that holds a gemstone in place within a ring or pendant.
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Process
A design brief used to transform old jewellery into a new piece. It allows sentimental items to be refreshed and modernised.
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Process
Jewellery sizing is the process of adjusting a ring’s circumference so it fits comfortably and securely. Expert resizing preserves symmetry and protects gemstone settings.
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Technique
A historic diamond cut with 88 facets, designed for exceptional brilliance.
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Piece
A small metal loop used in chains and jewellery connections.
K
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Piece
A measure of gold purity, with 24 karat being pure gold.
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Technique
A keel line is the sharp or gently rounded ridge that runs along the bottom of certain gemstone shapes, such as marquise or pear cuts. It helps define symmetry and shape.
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Process
A global certification preventing the trade of conflict diamonds. It guarantees stones are ethically sourced.
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Technique
A ring band with a pointed edge, adding a modern or architectural look.
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Mineral
A pink to lilac gemstone known for its delicate colour and romantic appeal.
L
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Mineral
A diamond created in a controlled laboratory environment, identical in composition to natural diamonds.
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Piece
Light leakage describes areas where light escapes from a diamond rather than reflecting back to the viewer. Stones with minimal leakage typically appear brighter and more brilliant.
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Process
A magnifying tool used by gemmologists and jewellers to inspect gemstones.
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Piece
The way a gemstone reflects light from its surface; often described as silky, vitreous or metallic.
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Process
The range of light reflection a gemstone or metal can display. Higher lustre provides a brighter and more appealing surface finish.
M
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Technique
An advanced method used by highly skilled setters to place gems securely and perfectly. It ensures precision, symmetry and durability.
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Piece
A master stone is a precisely graded reference diamond used to assess colour grading. Gemmologists compare gemstones against master stones to ensure accuracy and consistency.
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Mineral
Metal density refers to the weight of a metal relative to its size. Platinum is denser than gold, giving it a heavier feel and excellent durability.
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Technique
A decorative jewellery detail made up of tiny beads of metal, often seen in vintage designs.
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Piece
A scale ranking mineral hardness from 1 to 10, with diamonds rated as the hardest at 10.
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Mineral
A soft pink gemstone from the beryl family, known for its romantic colour and affordability.
N
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Mineral
A marker used to confirm a diamond’s natural origin through testing and spectroscopy. It differentiates natural stones from lab-grown alternatives.
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Mineral
Natural fancy colour diamonds develop rich hues such as yellow, pink, blue or green during formation. Their rarity means value depends heavily on hue, saturation and intensity.
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Mineral
A gemstone formed through natural geological processes, without human interference
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Technique
The design and structure that holds gemstones in place on a necklace.
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Piece
Jewellery that contains no nickel, often chosen to prevent allergic reactions.
O
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Piece
An Old European Cut is an early diamond cut featuring a high crown, small table and broad facets. It offers a soft, romantic glow and is popular for vintage-inspired rings.
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Mineral
A gemstone known for its play of colour and unique patterns, available in a range of hues.
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Technique
A popular gemstone shape that offers a flattering, elongated look with brilliant sparkle.
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Process
A score assessing how balanced and even an oval-cut stone appears. Good symmetry enhances sparkle and elegance.
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Technique
A decorative layer of metal or enamel applied to jewellery surfaces for visual effect.
P
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A style where small gemstones are set closely together with minimal metal showing.
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Technique
The precision with which the lower part of a gemstone is shaped. It heavily influences brilliance and light return.
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Mineral
Platinum 950 is an alloy containing 95% pure platinum. It is widely used in fine jewellery for its strength, natural white colour, and resistance to wear.
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Piece
A platinum wedding band ring is crafted from a naturally white, rare metal known for its exceptional strength and durability. It offers a timeless, understated finish and is ideal for everyday wear due to its resistance to tarnishing and wear.
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Process
Polish refers to the final stage of metal finishing that creates a smooth, reflective surface. A high-quality polish enhances shine and highlights craftsmanship.
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Process
A polished finish is the high-shine surface applied to most gold and platinum jewellery. It creates a smooth, mirror-like appearance and enhances the overall elegance of a piece.
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Mineral
Rare, valuable metals such as gold, platinum, and silver used in fine jewellery.
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Technique
A square-shaped gemstone cut with sharp corners and brilliant facets.
Q
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Process
The process of verifying that jewellery meets standards for craftsmanship and materials.
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Piece
A quarter-eternity ring features diamonds or gemstones set across just the upper portion of the band. This design provides sparkle while maintaining comfort and easier resizing.
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Process
A ring size increment between standard whole or half sizes, offering more precise fit.
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Mineral
A common gemstone family, with varieties including amethyst, citrine, and rose quartz.
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Technique
The natural vibration frequency of quartz crystals. This property contributes to quartz’s durability and appeal in jewellery.
R
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Piece
The circular band of a ring that encircles the finger.
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Process
Ring sizing is the measurement of a ring’s internal diameter or circumference. Accurate sizing is essential for comfort and secure wear.
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Process
Adjusting the size of a ring to better fit the wearer’s finger.
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Mineral
A rose-cut diamond has a flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets. It offers a subtle, vintage glow and is loved for its soft, understated sparkle.
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Process
The ideal ratio determining the perfect roundness of a brilliant-cut diamond. It ensures maximum sparkle and visual balance.
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Mineral
A red gemstone known for its intense colour, symbolic of passion and protection.
S
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Mineral
A precious gemstone available in many colours, with blue being the most well-known.
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Technique
The technique or design used to secure gemstones into a piece of jewellery.
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Process
A check ensuring claws, bezels or bands are structurally secure. It prevents loss or damage to the gemstone.
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Mineral
A gemstone often confused with ruby, available in a wide range of colours and known for durability.
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Process
A split shank ring features a band that divides into two or more strands as it approaches the centre stone. This creates an open, elegant design and enhances visual interest.
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Process
Symmetry assesses how evenly a gemstone’s facets align and mirror one another. High symmetry contributes to balanced light performance and visual appeal.
T
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Piece
The flat top surface of a gemstone, often the largest facet.
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Process
The burst of light seen when viewing a gemstone from above. Strong table flash increases perceived sparkle.
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Technique
Table percentage measures the diameter of a diamond’s table facet in relation to the stone’s overall width. It influences brightness, light return and cut grading.
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Process
A tapered band narrows gradually towards the gemstone setting. This design draws attention to the centre stone and can create a more elegant silhouette.
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Technique
A modern design that holds the gemstone in place using pressure, creating a floating effect.
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Piece
A ring featuring three gemstones, symbolising past, present and future.
U
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Process
A cleaning cycle using sound waves to remove dirt and oil from jewellery. It restores brilliance safely when used correctly.
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Process
A device that uses vibrations and cleaning solution to safely clean jewellery.
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Technique
The under-gallery is the inner structure beneath the ring’s setting that rests against the finger. A well-designed under-gallery improves comfort, balance and craftsmanship.
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Mineral
A gemstone that has not been heat-treated to enhance colour or clarity.
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Piece
The facets just above the girdle of a gemstone that affect sparkle.
V
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Process
Documentation proving the origin and history of gemstones. It increases trust and long-term value.
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Technique
Verméil (pronounced ver-may) is sterling silver coated with a thick layer of gold, offering a luxurious look similar to solid gold at a more accessible price point.
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Technique
Vintage cut diamonds refer to older cutting styles such as old mine or old European cuts. These cuts are known for their broader facets and softer light return.
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Piece
Pieces inspired by or originating from earlier eras, often featuring intricate details.
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Process
A type of shine that resembles glass, commonly seen in transparent gemstones.
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Process
A diamond clarity grade meaning ‘Very Slightly Included,’ with minor inclusions.
W
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Process
A prototype used in the lost-wax casting process to create custom jewellery designs.
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Piece
A plain or gemstone-set ring exchanged during a wedding ceremony.
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Piece
A wedding ring set includes an engagement ring and wedding band designed to sit together seamlessly. Coordinated designs ensure a perfect fit and harmonious aesthetic.
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Mineral
A silver-toned alloy of gold, often plated with rhodium for added shine and durability.
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Mineral
A mixture of gold with metals like palladium or nickel to create white gold. The alloy affects colour, strength and durability.
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Mineral
White metal is a collective term for metals with a silvery appearance, including platinum, white gold, and palladium. Each varies in composition, durability, and maintenance.
X
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Technique
A criss-cross band or setting style used in modern ring designs.
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Process
A testing method used to determine the metal composition of jewellery.
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Mineral
A geological formation where gemstones appear inside foreign rocks. It can produce unique and rare stone characteristics.
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Mineral
A rare gemstone composed of yttrium phosphate, sometimes used in unique jewellery.
Y
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Piece
A Y-necklace features a chain that drops into a Y-shape, often finished with a gemstone or pendant. It creates an elongating and elegant neckline.
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Mineral
A synthetic gemstone used as a diamond simulant.
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Process
A year-end valuation is an updated jewellery appraisal completed before insurance renewal or travel. It ensures coverage reflects current market conditions.
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Mineral
The intensity of colour in yellow diamonds, from pale lemon to deep golden hues. Higher saturation increases rarity and value.
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Mineral
A classic alloy made by mixing pure gold with copper and zinc, offering a rich, warm tone.
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Process
The amount of gemstone retained from a rough stone after cutting.
Z
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Technique
A zig-zag setting arranges gemstones in a staggered pattern across a band. This layout maximises sparkle by catching light from multiple angles.
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Mineral
A metal mixture used in fashion jewellery, often not as durable as precious metals.
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Mineral
A natural gemstone with high brilliance, often used as a diamond alternative.
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Mineral
The distinctive sparkle pattern produced by zircon’s high refractive index. It creates fiery and eye-catching brilliance.
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Piece
Uneven colour distribution within a gemstone, which can affect its visual appeal and value.
