How to choose a heart diamond

Buying Guide

The heart cut is a type of modified brilliant cut, sharing the same facet structure designed to maximize sparkle while creating a distinctive, symbolic silhouette. In this case, the classic round brilliant is transformed into the universally recognized shape of love—with two rounded lobes, a defined cleft, and a pointed tip. As part of the fancy cut family, the heart cut offers a romantic and eye-catching alternative to traditional shapes, combining bold symbolism with exceptional brilliance.

• Characteristics

  Length-to-Width Ratio:

  Heart cut diamonds generally have a length-to-width ratio between 0.90 and 1.10. A ratio close to 1.00 creates a balanced, classic heart shape, while slightly wider or narrower stones can appear either fuller or more elongated, depending on personal taste and how the diamond flatters the wearer’s hand.

  Facets:

  Most heart-shaped diamonds feature 56 to 58 brilliant-style facets, similar to round brilliants. These facets are carefully arranged to maximize sparkle while maintaining the distinct curves and cleft of the heart shape.

  Symmetry & Shape:

  Symmetry is especially important for heart cut diamonds. Well-balanced, matching lobes, a sharp and defined cleft, and a precise, even point are all key to the diamond’s overall beauty and proportion. Any imbalance can make the shape look uneven or less recognizable.

  Depth and Pavilion:

  Like other brilliant cuts, heart diamonds typically have deeper pavilions to enhance brilliance. Look for well-proportioned stones that balance depth and table size to ensure optimal light return and face-up appearance.

•  Buying Tips

  Cut Quality:

  Since heart cut diamonds don’t receive standardized cut grades from most labs, pay close attention to symmetry, outline, and proportions. A well-cut heart will have evenly shaped lobes, a clearly defined cleft, and a sharp, centered point. Avoid stones with uneven sides or a poorly formed cleft, as these can affect both sparkle and overall appearance.

  Colour and Clarity:

  Heart cuts can reveal colour more easily at the pointed tip and along the edges. For a bright, colourless look, choose a colour grade of H or higher for white gold or platinum settings. In yellow or rose gold, slightly warmer grades like I or J can still look beautiful. For clarity, VS2 or SI1 is often a good balance, as the brilliant facets can help hide minor inclusions—just ensure the stone is eye-clean.

  Settings:

  Because of the delicate point, protective settings are key for heart-shaped diamonds. V-prong or bezel settings help shield the tip from damage, while halo, solitaire, and three-stone designs beautifully showcase the heart’s romantic shape. The setting choice can also enhance the stone’s visual size and brilliance.

• Popular Settings

  Solitaire:

  A solitaire setting allows the heart cut diamond’s romantic shape to take center stage. The simple band highlights the distinctive silhouette, perfect for those who want a bold, timeless symbol of love.

  Halo:

  Surrounding the heart diamond with a halo of smaller diamonds enhances its sparkle and creates the illusion of a larger center stone. This setting also softens the edges and amplifies the stone’s brilliance.

  Vintage-Inspired:

  Heart cut diamonds pair beautifully with vintage-style settings featuring milgrain detailing, filigree designs, or side stones. These elements add an old-world charm that highlights the heart’s sentimental symbolism.

  Bezel Setting:

  For a modern, protective option, a bezel setting encases the heart diamond in a smooth metal rim. This style provides extra durability—especially for the delicate point—while offering a sleek, contemporary look.

  Three-Stone:

  Framing the heart cut diamond with complementary side stones—such as pear, round, or tapered baguettes—adds depth and meaning, often symbolizing the past, present, and future of a relationship.