Few gemstones display as much variety as tourmaline. Celebrated for its remarkable range of colours, this fascinating stone has captivated jewellers and collectors for centuries. From delicate pastel tones to intensely vivid hues, tourmaline offers a palette unlike almost any other gemstone. Its versatility, durability, and distinctive crystal structure make it a beautiful and meaningful choice for jewellery.

What Are Tourmalines?

Tourmaline is a crystalline boron silicate mineral that forms deep within the Earth under conditions of significant heat and pressure. As molten rock gradually cools, the presence of elements such as iron, magnesium, and lithium influences the colour that the stone ultimately displays. This process can produce an impressive spectrum of shades, ranging from vibrant pinks and lush greens to deep blues and even rich black tones.

Tourmaline crystals typically grow in long, slender formations with distinctive vertical grooves running along their length. These striations are a recognisable feature of the gemstone and contribute to its unique character. The stone also displays natural pleochroism, meaning it can reveal different colours depending on the angle at which light passes through it.

In addition to its visual appeal, tourmaline is valued for its practicality in jewellery. With a hardness of around 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, it is durable enough for everyday wear while still offering the beauty and individuality expected of a fine gemstone.

Tourmaline is also closely associated with meaningful occasions. It is recognised as one of October’s birthstones and is traditionally linked to the 8th wedding anniversary, making tourmaline jewellery a thoughtful gift for birthdays, anniversaries, or other important milestones.

Colours of Tourmaline

One of tourmaline’s most remarkable qualities is its extraordinary range of colour. In fact, the name “tourmaline” is believed to come from the Sinhalese word turmali, meaning “stone of many colours” or “mixed gems”. The name perfectly reflects the gemstone’s ability to appear in an almost endless spectrum of shades.

Paraíba Tourmaline is perhaps the most famous and valuable variety. Known for its striking neon blue-to-green hues, its colour is caused by the presence of copper and manganese. Its intense, almost electric colour makes it one of the most sought-after gemstones in the world.

Chrome Tourmaline is a rare and intensely vibrant green variety coloured by chromium and sometimes vanadium. Often sourced from Tanzania, its rich green tone is frequently compared to that of emerald.

Rubellite is the trade name given to pink, red, or purplish-red tourmaline. High-quality rubellites are especially prized when they maintain their rich red colour under both natural and artificial lighting.

Watermelon Tourmaline is one of the most distinctive varieties. These unique stones display a pink centre surrounded by a green outer layer, closely resembling the colours of the fruit from which they take their name.

 

Bi-colour or parti-colour tourmaline occurs when a single crystal naturally forms with two or more colours within the same stone. These combinations might include pink and green or blue and yellow, creating striking and highly individual gemstones.

Pink tourmaline is a popular variety admired for its vibrant shades ranging from soft blush to rich rose and magenta tones. Its lively colour and brilliance make it a beautiful choice for jewellery, particularly when set in warm metals like rose or yellow gold.

Indicolite is the rare blue variety of tourmaline, displaying colours that range from light sky blue to deep indigo. Its cool, saturated tones and relative rarity make it especially prized in fine jewellery and among gemstone collectors.

Olive green tourmaline (Verdelite) is valued for its earthy, sophisticated tone that ranges from soft mossy hues to deeper forest greens. Its rich colour makes it a distinctive and elegant choice for jewellery, offering a natural alternative to more traditional green gemstones.

 

Origins & Sources

Tourmaline is mined in several locations around the world, with notable sources including Brazil, Mozambique, Nigeria, Tanzania, Madagascar, Afghanistan, and the United States.

Brazil has historically been one of the most important producers of tourmaline and remains closely associated with some of the gemstone’s most famous varieties. In more recent years, Mozambique and Nigeria have become significant sources, producing stones in a wide range of colours, including the rare and highly prized neon-blue Paraíba-type tourmalines.

The diversity of locations contributes to the gemstone’s extraordinary range of colours and characteristics, making tourmaline one of the most varied gemstones found in nature.

A Brief History of Tourmaline

The story of tourmaline spans centuries. Although the gemstone was formally classified in the 18th century, it had already been admired and used in jewellery long before scientists fully understood its identity.

One early story dates back to the 1500s in Brazil, where a Spanish conquistador reportedly washed dirt from a bright green crystal and mistook it for an emerald. Similar cases of mistaken identity occurred frequently, as tourmaline’s wide range of colours allowed it to resemble many other gemstones.

Dutch traders later adopted the term 'turmali' to describe the colourful assortment of stones they encountered in the gem gravels of Ceylon (modern-day Sri Lanka). For many years these vibrant crystals were mistaken for other gemstones, and it was not until the 19th century that scientists formally identified tourmaline as its own distinct mineral group.

Tourmaline on Celebrities

Tourmaline’s extraordinary colour range has made it a favourite among jewellery designers and stylists, particularly for high-profile red carpet moments. 

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Zendaya wore a 31-carat Paraíba tourmaline necklace by Bulgari to the 82nd Golden Globe Awards (2025).

The striking necklace showcased the rare gemstone’s signature electric blue-green colour, widely considered one of the most captivating hues found in any gemstone. Paraíba tourmalines are prized for their neon-like intensity, and Zendaya’s statement necklace demonstrated how the gemstone can create a dramatic focal point on the red carpet.

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Gwyneth Paltrow wore earrings featuring rubellite tourmalines at the 87th Academy Awards (2015).

The spectacular earrings featured four pear-shaped rubellite tourmalines with a combined weight of 123.88 carats, creating a striking display of rich pinkish-red colour. Rubellite is one of the most prized varieties of tourmaline thanks to its saturated tone and ability to retain its colour in different lighting conditions, making it particularly suited to statement jewellery.

For those inspired by this vibrant pink hue, you can also style tourmaline in your own jewellery collection. The Carved Tourmaline Leaf Drop Earrings from Holts Gems offer a softer interpretation of the gemstone’s colour. Crafted in 18ct rose gold, the earrings feature beautifully carved tourmaline leaves that highlight the stone’s natural translucency and delicate pink tones. The organic leaf design gives the piece an elegant, nature-inspired feel while showcasing tourmaline’s unique colour and character.

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Emily Blunt wore Paraíba tourmaline jewellery at the 72nd Golden Globe Awards (2015).

Her jewellery included stunning Paraíba tourmaline, diamond, and platinum earrings, accompanied by a bracelet set with 16 carats of Paraíba tourmalines. The vivid turquoise-blue stones provided a beautiful contrast against the diamonds and platinum setting, perfectly illustrating why Paraíba tourmaline is considered one of the most coveted gemstones in the world.

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Julia Roberts has also been associated with a distinctive tourmaline engagement ring.

Her ring is believed to feature an oval-shaped green tourmaline of approximately 1.5 to 2 carats, set within a diamond-accented platinum or white gold band. The choice of a green tourmaline highlights the gemstone’s versatility beyond traditional engagement ring stones, offering a rich, vibrant colour while maintaining the elegance expected of fine jewellery.

Conclusion

With its remarkable spectrum of colours and fascinating history, tourmaline remains one of the most distinctive gemstones in fine jewellery. From vivid pinks and rich greens to electric Paraíba blues, its natural variety means every stone has its own unique character.

If you’re inspired by the beauty of tourmaline, explore the Holts Gems jewellery collection to discover pieces showcasing this colourful gemstone, or speak to our team about creating a bespoke tourmaline design tailored entirely to you.