How to choose an emerald diamond

Buying Guide

The emerald cut is a step cut, known for its clean lines, long rectangular facets, and elegant symmetry. Unlike brilliant cuts that focus on sparkle, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and sophistication, offering a “hall of mirrors” effect through its broad, open facets. As a member of the fancy cut family, it provides a refined alternative to classic round shapes—perfect for those drawn to understated luxury and timeless geometry. Its elongated silhouette flatters the finger, while its minimalism makes it a favourite for those seeking a modern yet enduringly classic look.

• Characteristics

  Length-to-Width Ratio:

  Emerald cut diamonds are typically rectangular, with ideal length-to-width ratios ranging from 1.30 to 1.50. A lower ratio will give a more square appearance, while a higher ratio creates a longer, more slender silhouette. The best ratio depends on personal style and how the shape complements the wearer’s hand.

  Facets:

  Emerald cuts feature step-cut facets, usually with 57 facets arranged in parallel lines. This facet structure produces a sleek, mirror-like effect rather than intense sparkle, emphasizing clarity and symmetry over brilliance.

  Light Performance:

  Rather than fiery brilliance, emerald cut diamonds offer a refined “hall of mirrors” effect—broad flashes of light that move across the stone. Because of the large, open table and linear facets, light performance depends heavily on the precision of the cut.

  Inclusion Visibility:

  Due to the open, transparent nature of the emerald cut, inclusions and flaws are more visible than in brilliant cuts. For this reason, clarity becomes especially important—opt for VS2 or higher, or ensure that any inclusions are well-placed and not visible to the naked eye.

•  Buying Tips

  Cut Quality:

  Emerald cuts rely heavily on precision and symmetry to achieve their signature “hall of mirrors” effect. Since they don’t sparkle like brilliant cuts, look for excellent polish, symmetry, and proper proportions—especially table and depth percentages—to ensure crisp reflections and minimal windowing or darkness within the stone.

  Colour and Clarity:

  The open, step-cut facets of emerald cuts make both colour and inclusions more visible, so quality matters. Aim for a colour grade of G or higher for a bright, colourless appearance—especially in platinum or white gold settings. For clarity, VS2 or better is recommended, though an eye-clean SI1 may still offer great value if inclusions are well-positioned.

  Settings:

  Emerald cut diamonds look striking in solitaire, three-stone, and bezel settings, where their clean lines and elongated shape can shine. East-west settings offer a modern twist, while halo or vintage-style settings can add extra glamour. A four-prong or double-claw setting helps protect the sharp corners without interrupting the elegant profile.

• Popular Settings

  Solitaire:

  A solitaire setting showcases the emerald cut’s crisp lines and geometric elegance. This minimalist style lets the diamond take center stage, highlighting its length, clarity, and classic appeal—perfect for those drawn to timeless simplicity.

  Halo:

  A halo of smaller diamonds adds brilliance and visual impact to the emerald cut’s understated sparkle. This setting enhances the size and presence of the center stone while providing a glamorous, eye-catching frame that contrasts beautifully with the emerald’s clean silhouette.

  Vintage-Inspired:

  Emerald cuts pair beautifully with vintage-inspired settings featuring details like milgrain, filigree, or tapered side stones. These styles nod to the Art Deco era, emphasizing the emerald cut’s architectural lines and refined charm.

  Bezel Setting:

  For a sleek, modern aesthetic, a bezel setting wraps the emerald cut in a smooth metal rim. This design enhances durability—especially at the corners—and provides a bold, contemporary finish that’s both stylish and secure.

  Three-Stone:

  Flanking the emerald cut with side stones, such as trapezoids, baguettes, or smaller emeralds, adds dimension and meaning. Often symbolizing the past, present, and future, this setting style offers a balanced, elegant profile that suits both traditional and modern tastes.